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The winding snake that is Vietnam contains so much spectacular scenery. Breath-taking beaches, ancient forests, but for the truly adventurous, the mountains always call. This rugged highland is both spectacular and dangerous. One of the most memorable experiences you can have is riding through a mountain pass while in Vietnam. I visited Mu Cang Chai and rode through ‘Đèo Khau Phạ’ back in the spring of 2021 and will always have the precious memories of this special place.
I was introduced to the spectacular Khau Pha Mountain Pass by my host while staying in Mu Cang Chai. At the time I had never heard of it. But cruising through this beautiful stretch of road, proved to be one of the highlights of my trip to Yen Bai province.
Kau Pha means ‘horn of heaven’ or ‘devil’s horns’ in the local language. The pinnacle of the Pass pokes through the thick fog like a devil stirring into life from the mountain valleys.
The Pass is 30km (just under 19 miles) long and is between the Van Chan and Mu Cang Chai districts in northern Vietnam. This stunning road winds it’s way through the rice terraces and the forests.
There are many dangers when negotiating the Khau Pha Mountain Pass, aside from the extremely sharp turns and the mountain mist often clouding the whole road. Add the fact falling stones and rocks from the mountains are common and there’s NO BARRIERS in certain sections; the Khau Pha Pass is not for the faint-hearted.
When I was there
I did part of the Khau Pha Pass with my host Khang from Indigenous homestay and part with one of the other guests, a Vietnamese traveller (see photos). My host so kindly showed off his homeland, rightfully bursting with pride, as he did so.
Khang would leap off his motorbike and rush over to the mountain edge, to stop and admire the jaw-dropping views. He knew I’d join his side and soon become equally hypnotized by the vast panorama unfurling before us. He showed me his own father’s rice paddy, which had been tendered and cultivated for decades. He explained it wasn’t financially rewarding, more a labor of love.
Every separate plot of the rice terraces joined one another to form a natural, richly woven tapestry of yellow, brown and green. I waved down into the paddies, as if the distant figure of his Dad was waving up at us.
The spectacular Khau Pha Mountain Pass has an elevation of 1500m (4900ft) above sea level and is very popular for paragliding. The road that leads to the summit is National Highway 32. The Pass stretches over Khau Pha Mountain, Mu Cang Chai’s highest point. There’s many spots to pull in and take photos or make videos along the way. As an artist, I wanted to just whip out an easel and canvas, then start painting!
If you want to include the Pass as part of a tour, you can do so with Easy Riders Vietnam
Vietnam’s Premier Paragliding Spot
In 2017, Khau Pha Pass started that year’s paragliding festival and this place continues to attract thrill seekers from all over the country and the world. In fact it’s considered Vietnam’s premier paragliding spot. Activity picks up during the autumn months of harvest season. VietWings organize this annual event, where participants can compete with each other. Donations from these events go to help the local Hmong ethnic people and support the local culture here.
The best time to visit
It’s often said that the best time to visit this place is in September or October, if you want to really appreciate the beauty of the terraces, when they are golden in colour. However, I come here during late April, early May time and it was still a breathtaking sight to behold.
Getting there
By car or motorbike:
From Hanoi, take Highway 32 to Phu Tho Province, keep going until you reach Nghia Lo. From Yen Bai city, one must ride up into the hills for about 5 hours, before reaching the Pass.
By bus:
From My Dinh bus station, Hanoi, take a bus to Nghia Lo, then take a local bus further into Yen Bai Province. Tickets are between 100,000-300,000vnd. Please check closer to the time of your trip for accurate, up to date info.
If you plan to stay in Mu Cang Chai for a few nights then contact your homestay host for travel advice too. They can arrange a mini bus to take you to your final destination.
For more on Mu Cang Chai you can visit here
